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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lafite-Rothschild has a vivacious bouquet with feisty red berry fruit laced with kirsch, blueberry and subtle blood orange aromas that soar from the glass. There is no ignoring these aromatics. The palate has a soft, fleshy entry that caresses the senses, quite plush and more like a 2009 in style. Layers of red…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Margaux is a compelling, arrestingly beautiful wine that expresses all the best qualities of the vintage. Dark, fleshy and richly textured, the 2015 nevertheless retains the super-classic Margaux sense of structure. Time in the glass brings out the wine’s rich, multi-faceted personality. I imagine the 2015 will enjoy a very long and uninterrupted…

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Very good deep red-ruby. Pungent, expressive aromas of raspberry, black cherry, redcurrant, espresso and bitter chocolate. Very rich, sappy and deep, with chewy extract and lovely vinosity. Possible to taste right now owing to its sheer harmoniousness. Juicy framing acidity gives clarity to the flavors. Finishes very long and strong, with building but ripe tannins….

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Vintage is a nervy, electrifying Champagne, the likes of which has not emerged from Krug”s cellars since the magical 1996. Bright and sculpted, with tremendous precision, the 2008 dazzles from start to finish. Stylistically, the 2008 doesn”t have the toastiness or explosive breadth often found in young Krug, but that in no way…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Mouton-Rothschild, which Philippe Dhalluin told me was harvested in one week, has a forward, showy bouquet with more upfront black fruit than the 1999 Lafite-Rothschild I tasted an hour earlier. Blackberry mixes with hints of star anise and light tobacco notes, conveying energy and fine delineation if not the profundity of the greatest…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full medium ruby. Currant, meat, mocha and grilled nuts on the nose. Lush, sweet and smooth, with just enough vinosity to maintain its balance. A vin de plaisir whose lovely fruit and sweet, harmonious tannins make it very easy to taste today (the chateau carried out a gentler, shorter extraction in ’99). But doesn’t have…