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The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(bottled eight days before my visit): Very pure aromas of peach, lemon cream and spices lifted by a floral topnote. More tightly wound than the Combettes but with terrific lemony cut giving the middle palate a sharply chiseled, airy feel. Very pure and clean on the back end, with brisk acidity extending the perfumed, floral…

La Paulée 2009 (Part 3) (Mar 2009)

The 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Folatières from Leflaive was layered, rich and weighty, with tons of character, while Sauzet’s 2006 Puligny-Montrachet Referts showed more of a flinty, mineral-drivern personality. Both were beautiful.

2007 and 2006 White Burgundies (Sep 2008)

Sexy aromas of apricot and smoky, nutty oak, lifted by a floral topnote. Very ripe, rich and chewy, quite full for this bottling but with a mineral firmness giving it shape. Finishes with excellent length and nicely buffered alcohol. A silky, full-bodied white wine for winter drinking.

2003 and 2002 White Burgundies (Sep 2004)

Expressive nose combines lemon, roasted nuts, coconut and smoky oak. Sweet, silky and lush; wonderfully concentrated if a bit youthfully unforthcoming. Best today on the very long, palate-staining finish. Less floral and minerally than the Folatieres, but richer.

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2013 Vosne-Romanée Aux Réas has a fresh, damp earth and soy-tinged bouquet. The palate is crisp and taut, a little rigid in the mouth and it just needs a little more substance on the finish. Tasted at Goedhuis & Co.’s annual Burgundy tasting in London.

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2013 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru is, to quote Antoine Gouges, an “outside vintage.” At seven years old, it has an open bouquet of mulberry, undergrowth and wilted rose petal aromas, a little ferrous in style. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, rustic in style and just missing some depth and…