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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Mouton-Rothschild feels surprisingly reduced on the nose and needed a lot of coaxing. Leather, mocha, liquorice develops in the glass, quite bretty compared to its peers. The palate is medium-bodied, fleshy and ripe, that mocha translating over from the nose, minty with touches of white pepper on the finish. A very decent Pauillac,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Cantemerle is vigorous and open on the nose, a mixture of red and black fruit with cedar and humidor scents. I admire the focus and detail. The palate is rounded in texture on the entry. This is a plumper, richer, more fruit-driven 2010 with a lush finish on the context of the growing…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good full ruby-red. Musky aromas of black cherry, blueberry, espresso, menthol and licorice, lifted by a cool floral element. Densely packed and savory, displaying sappy energy to its intense dark berry flavors. With a serious structure and no easy sweetness today, this vibrant wine will need a good five to seven years in the cellar…

Annual Coverage of California’s North Coast (May 2013)

(the only one of these cabernets that includes some cabernet franc): Bright ruby-red. Lovely floral lift to the aromas of black raspberry, blueberry, smoky minerals and musky brown spices, with a note of coconutty oak emerging with air. Large-scaled, chewy and rich, showing compelling early sweetness to its dark berry and saline mineral flavors. Wonderfully…

2010 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: An Epic Vintage (Dec 2012)

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Few and Far Between Vineyard shows the riper side of the vintage. Super-ripe black fruit, tar, licorice and new leather blast onto the palate. There is no shortage of richness or opulence here, although I don’t quite find the level of complexity of the 2009. It will be interesting to see…

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour: 2023 Releases (Mar 2023)

The 2017 Les Forts de Latour conveys airiness on the nose, reflecting the relatively lightest vintage in recent years. Graphite and sous-bois infuse black fruit, offering a slightly welcome herbaceous/undergrowth tincture. The palate is very well-balanced and will appeal to those seeking a sleeker, lighter style of Pauillac. Not lean by any account, but this…