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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Quintus has gained more exuberance and intensity on the nose since its showing in barrel, offering flamboyant black fruit, blueberry, crushed violet petals and potpourri, all very well defined. A light menthol scent emerges with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp black fruit, tobacco and light cedar aromas. Like the Second Wine,…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(this and the rest of Girardin’s grand crus were bottled in late April, fined and lightly filtered): Pale, bright yellow. Crushed stone, lime blossom and saline minerality on the nose, complicated by ineffable high notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. At once dense and weightless, with powerful acidity giving the wine outstanding cut but completely shutting…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2011)

Good medium red. Spicy aromas and flavors of musky minerals, dried flowers and black pepper. Much more backward and austere than the Rocche, but with a classic dryness and superb precision. Not yet generous or pleasurable but this dry, powerfully tannic wine has the sheer intensity and underlying mineral spine to reward extended cellaring. A…

Barolo 2007: Greatness in the Making (Feb 2011)

The 2007 Barolo Lazzarito is a superb, plushwine loaded with dark fruit, flowers of all sorts, sweet menthol and minerals, all of which flow through to the long, powerful finish. The wine’s inner perfume emerges over time, adding even more nuance and subtlety to this big Barolo. The 2007 Lazzarito is far from an open,…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Mouton Rothschild is a powerful, brooding wine that very much reflects the high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon in the blend. Not in the mood to show much, the 2017 is also very much closed in on itself. Time in the glass brings out hints of black cherry jam, wild flowers and spice, but…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Mouton-Rothschild is lucid in colour, quite deep like the Le Petit Mouton. It has a pixelated bouquet with precise blackberry, raspberry and crushed stone aromas, the oak seamlessly integrated so that the aromatics have unerring focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a graphite-tinged entry that is actually reminiscent of Latour in many ways….