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Vinous Table: Portland, London, UK (Feb 2019)

The 2010 Chablis Les Preuses Grand Cru is one of the standouts from the best night of Chablis libation I have experienced. It has an extraordinarily intense bouquet of citrus fruit, yellow flowers, cold stone and a touch of linden. Breathtaking. The palate follows suit, delivering powerful yet refined citrus fruit that builds towards an electrifying crushed…

Chablis 2011 and 2010 (Jul 2012)

Bright pale yellow. Reticent, mineral-driven aromas of liquid rock, ginger, medicinal herbs and white flowers. Almost painfully intense today, with captivating floral lift to the crushed stone and saline mineral flavors. Utterly backward on the middle palate but the rising, palate-staining, remarkably long finish leaves the mouth vibrating with flavors of lavender, violet, anise and…

Chablis 2012: Energy, Power and Class (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Chablis La Forest is seriously beautiful. White peaches, pears, flowers, crushed rocks, mint and slate meld together in a hugely inviting, textured Chablis that will drink beautifully right out of the gate. At the same time, the 2011 is seriously inward for the year and clearly still has a lot more to say….

2012 and 2011 Chablis (Jul 2013)

Bright pale yellow. Penetrating mineral aromas of crushed stone and oyster shell, with a hint of ripe grapefruit in the background. Wonderfully juicy and vibrant if youthfully taut, offering uncanny intensity and tactility for the vintage. Finishes saline and extremely long, with notes of lime, oatmeal and powdered stone. This palate-staining wine left my salivary…

Rheinhessen Riesling 2016: The Triumph of Subtlety (May 2018)

Zesty lemon and tangerine are tinged with chalk dust on the nose. To the accompaniment of white peach, the citrus fruits turn surprisingly juicy and generous on the palate, which is notable also for its almost caressing silkiness. This is Morstein with a generosity, almost a youthful charm, that I don’t recall from past installments….

2014 Barbaresco: An October Surprise (Oct 2017)

Like most of the wines in this lineup, the 2013 Barbaresco Riserva Muncagota is quite potent. A rush of raspberry jam, wild flowers, white pepper and mint make a strong opening statement. Succulent and yet also structured, the Muncagota has so much to offer. It should be one of the first wines in this range…