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Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 2010 Haut-Bailly was served at dinner following the Giscours vertical. This has a powerful and almost primal bouquet with copious scents of black cherries, crushed stones and violets—the latter perhaps more prominent than previous bottles. The palate is, again, perhaps due to impeccable provenance, backward and obviously a decade away from its peak. But…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Léoville Las-Cases retains a deep colour at 20 years of age, with little aging on the rim. The bouquet leaves you instantly besotted with blackberry, wild hedgerow, black truffle, incense and light lavender scents in the background. The nose is very complex and one of the most vivacious that I encountered revisiting this…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Medium ruby-red. Inviting aromas of plum, warm stones, red licorice and menthol. Suave, gentle and elegantly styled; distinctly sweeter and lusher today than the La Mission, with even more mid-palate depth. Showing more red fruits today as well, with pungent minerality giving the wine lift and juiciness. Finishes with suave but substantial building tannins. Last…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good bright ruby-red. Pretty aromas of black cherry, cassis, tobacco leaf, minerals, licorice and violet. Chewy, rich and deep, with good dense mid-palate fruit and excellent concentration. Fuller and sweeter than the Langoa. Finishes long and delineated, with powerful tannic clout and terrific mineral thrust. A serious 2006 for the cellar.

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Blackberry, black cherry, toasty oak and musky espresso on the nose. Sweet, dense and pliant, with a layered texture and considerable early appeal. Lush but nicely delineated. Finishes with ripe tannins and lingering flavors of dark berries and espresso.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Palmer has long been one of my favorite wines from the Left Bank in this vintage. Now at 20 years of age, it has a sumptuous bouquet that you would attribute to a warmer growing season than 1999: mulberry, fresh dates and sloes, all beautifully defined, and little different from how this wine…