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A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2002 Pichon Baron has a rather slightly meaty, smoky bouquet, this bottle just a little more feral than the last. The palate is medium-bodied with gritty tannins, graphite and mint, rather hard towards the finish. I wonder if this is just past its peak? That said, it has an appealing correctness. Tasted at the…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2002 Pichon-Baron has a tar- and smoke-scented bouquet that does not match the precision of the 2001. It is much more reserved in style, lacking a bit of flair. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and quite foursquare, although it is redeemed by impressive detail toward the finish, which offers cedar and a…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good ruby-red. Complex nose melds blackcurrant, minerals, graphite, tobacco and licorice. Densely packed and youthfully closed, but also lush and generous, with sweet flavors of currant, tobacco, earth and spices shaped by firm acids. As sweet as this is, it’s also very firmly structured and serious. Offers outstanding palate coverage on the back.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Duhart-Milon is noticeably deep in color. It has a crisp bouquet of brambly black fruit, truffle, freshly rolled tobacco and just a touch of mint. The aromatics here are impressive and exude Pauillac class. The palate is medium-bodied with suppler tannins than the aromatics augur, and austere but quite deep in the mouth,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright ruby-red. Currant, shoe polish, currant leaf and nutty oak on the nose. Chunkier and fleshier than the Carruades de Lafite-in fact, almost rustic by comparison-but with firm supporting acidity. Rather backward wine that will need at least a few years of aging once it bottled.

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Branaire-Ducru has an attractive nose with more fruit concentration than expected: red cherries, wild strawberries, cedar and fennel. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. It’s compact at first, with savory notes developing towards the slightly lactic finish that has just a touch of austerity. It’s more muscular than today’s wines, but it’s…