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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

A beguiling mix of camphor and minty herbs, along with crushed stone, blows off slowly to reveal dark depths of black raspberry, licorice, autumnal spice and worn leather as the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Vigna Paganelli unfolds in the glass. Its textures are unexpectedly soft and velvety-smooth, coupled with depths of intense red fruits…

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

The bouquet on the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Franci is deeply rooted in the earth, with notes of underbrush and crushed ashen stone giving way to black currants and savory herbs. It’s far more lifted and delicate in feel than anticipated, presenting a lovely inner sweetness and a pure display of tart woodland berries…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut is simply fabulous. In most vintages, Dom Ruinart is a big, ample Champagne that shows the structure of the Montagne de Reims Chardonnay in the blend. The 2006 has plenty of textural resonance and richness, and yet I am also struck by its tension. Both bottles I…

2011 Barolo, Part 2 – Late Releases (Dec 2015)

Conterno’s 2011 Barolo Francia lifts from the glass with the most finessed, exquisite aromatics imaginable. Over the last decade, Monfortino has not been made three times; 2003, 2007 and 2009, all warm vintages for Piedmont. In each of those years, the Francia was a big, racy Barolo. But the 2011 is totally different. Readers will…

2011 Barolo, Part 2 – Late Releases (Dec 2015)

Conterno’s 2011 Barolo Francia lifts from the glass with the most finessed, exquisite aromatics imaginable. Over the last decade, Monfortino has not been made three times; 2003, 2007 and 2009, all warm vintages for Piedmont. In each of those years, the Francia was a big, racy Barolo. But the 2011 is totally different. Readers will…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Saturated ruby. Expansive cherry, black raspberry, potpourri and exotic spice aromas are complemented by subtle licorice and woodsmoke flourishes. Vibrant and sharply focused in the mouth, with a spine of juicy acidity adding focus to palate-staining black and blue fruit liqueur, violet pastille, mocha and spicecake flavors. The floral quality resonates emphatically on the clinging…