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The Best New Wines from Spain (Nov 2001)

Full medium ruby. Sexy perfume combines black raspberry, redcurrant, tar and bitter chocolate; liqueur-like without being porty. Very suave and sophisticated in the mouth; not thick but quite lush and seamless, with near-confectionery sweetness and a strong component of tarry oak. Finishes with ripe, even tannins and slightly raw oak notes of tar and caramel….

1995 and 1994 Bordeaux (May 1996)

Good deep color. Expressive aromas of coffee, mocha and smoke. Lovely perfumed, sweet cherry flavor in the mouth; dense but high-pitched and fresh. Has a spicy character and noteworthy persistence on the aftertaste. Seems more graceful than many other Michel Rolland wines. Perhaps the most complete Bon Pasteur since the ’82.

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2014 Melbury is bright, perfumed and wonderfully lifted in the glass. Soft, silky tannins add to the wine’s considerable appeal. Medium in body and gracious, the 2014 is absolutely exquisite today. Sweet red cherry, plum, rose petal and mint grace the supple finish. This is a super-refined wine from BOND.

A Bond Extravaganza (Jun 2017)

(bottled three weeks before the tasting): Dark red-ruby. Very restrained scents of cherry, redcurrant, tobacco, licorice and loam. A subtle, juicy midweight; tight and imploded today but suave in its grain and beautifully delineated. Showing more red fruits than black. There’s nothing heavy about this extremely elegant wine, but there’s no easy sweetness either. Very…

Mother & Child: La Lagune 1962 – 2015 (Apr 2018)

The 1970 La Lagune has long been one of the better vintages from yesteryear. This bottle exhibited a slightly fatigued, tarry nose with straightforward dusty black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied, stocky and lacking much sense of grace but with vestiges of sweetness on the finish. Well-stored bottles will give pleasure to those partial to…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…