Archives: Product Reviews

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Vinous Table: TORC, Napa, USA (Oct 2021)

In its youth, the 2001 was incredibly austere for years. Now, the fruit is starting to fade, while whole cluster inflections and potent tannins dominate. Maybe I have had bad luck. I will hold up hope of encountering a better example at some point in the future. This bottle is good, but it does not…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru demonstrates a little more amplitude than the Clos de la Roche because of the one-third stem addition. It is exquisitely defined, offering precise black fruit laced with melted tar and graphite notes, and wonderful focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins framing the judiciously spiced black fruit that…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru demonstrates a little more amplitude than the Clos de la Roche because of the one-third stem addition. It is exquisitely defined, offering precise black fruit laced with melted tar and graphite notes, and wonderful focus. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins framing the judiciously spiced black fruit that…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1996 Pichon-Baron now has a superior bouquet to the 1995. There is much better definition here, and the scents of blackberry, graphite, smoke and a touch of gravel are all very harmonious and focused – quintessential Pauillac. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin and very fresh in the mouth. Hints of blood orange…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Good full ruby-red. Roasted plum, leather and smoked nuts on the nose. Silky and layered in the mouth. Sweet and suave, with a complicating mineral quality. Suggests solid extract but ultimately a wine of very good rather than outstanding intensity. Finishes with fine tannins and persistent, slow-building flavor. Fleshier and more pliant than the ’98.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deep ruby-red. Bright, enticing aromas of redcurrant, minerals and tobacco; not quite as ripe as the ’96. Lovely sweetness and clarity of flavor in the mouth. More supple than the ’96, and likely to be approachable much earlier. Finishes with substantial, tongue-coating tannins.