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2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Full yellow-orange. Aromas of mirabelle, honeycomb and rose petal; slightly blurry. Fat and quite sweet, with a smoky quality to its fruit. Very rich, slightly warm wine that could use a bit more shape and backbone.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(100% merlot; 14.2% alcohol; 3.8 pH; 40 ha/hl; a 65% selection; 50% new oak) Fully saturated ruby-red. Mindblowingly intense, utterly hedonistic nose redolent of sexy, superripe blueberry and blackcurrant complicated by sweet Oriental spices, cocoa and coffee. Then creamy-smooth and downright voluptuous, with superconcentrated blackberry, blueberry and plum flavors complemented by delicate smoke and flint…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Petrus is surprisingly backward on the nose compared directly with the 2009 Le Pin, demanding a lot of coaxing. Initially broody, it then begins to flourish with wild strawberry, cranberry, crushed stone and black truffle, all beautifully defined but very succinct. The palate is medium-bodied with silky tannins lending an almost cashmere texture….

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark ruby. Ripe red cherry, cocoa, exotic herbs, soy sauce, sweet spices and a hint of licorice on the showy, opulent nose. At once fat and juicy, with firm-edged dark berry flavors contributing very good grip and backbone to softer, fleshier plum, black cherry, chocolate syrup and sexy Oriental spice flavors. Finishes juicy, minty and…

Making the Case for New Zealand Reds (Mar 2021)

This is a pup of a Pinot Noir, full of youthful vigor. In addition to its floral and cherry-infused nose, there is a bouquet garni of woody herbs, which could be partly explained by a 25% whole bunch component, as well as in-bunch variation, which was a signature of this vintage at Felton Road, according…

Making the Case for New Zealand Reds (Mar 2021)

An alluring style that draws you in with its silken texture. It is pure, inviting and might be called sumptuous if not for an arrow-like line of acidity and whole-bunch-derived sappiness bringing up the rear, taking that ethereal texture and urging this wine forward. The finish is interminable, with satisfying savory, spicy characters persisting alongside…