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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru has an alluring bouquet of mulberry, hoisin, sage and crushed stone, a subtle meaty element becoming noticeable with time in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly creamy opening. There is more lushness here compared to the Village Cru, and damson and white pepper emerge toward the finish….

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Volnay En Carelle Sous La Chapelle 1er Cru is matured in 20% new oak and is completely de-stemmed. It offers darker fruit compared to the Volnay Village with raspberry, wild strawberry and cranberry. Hints of briary and sous-bois develope in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a vibrant entry, veins of blood…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Pommard Les Rugiens 1er Cru comes from 90-year-old vines, including 20% whole bunches and the same percentage of new oak. It is very expressive on the nose with brambly red berry fruit, briary, sous-bois and light rose petal scents. This is one of the prettiest Les Rugiens that I have tasted. The palate…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has an intense bouquet with blackberry, redcurrant and cranberry scents laced with tobacco and woodland aromas. Lovely definition and focus here. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, enormous depth and great concentration, perhaps the most Musigny-esque of the Bonnes-Mares. Great length but it needs some serious cellaring. Enormous…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(the estate made 34 hectoliters per hectare as its vines in Bonnes-Mares escaped frost damage): Healthy medium red. Powerfully aromatic nose combines a sexy medicinal note with an inviting musky, fleshy quality that I did not find in any other of the estate’s ’16s. Robust, chewy and deep on the palate, offering mouthfilling flavors of…

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

(from high on the hillside): Medium red, a bit less bright than the Bressandes. Extremely minerally on the nose, with a hint of menthol and little in the way of fruit showing today. Then rich and saline in the mouth, showing more structure than perfume today. Youthfully imploded today and dominated by its serious tannic…