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2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Meyney is terrific. There is lovely depth to the black cherry, graphite, smoke and earthy flavors. This is an especially supple, fruity style for Saint Estèphe, and yet there is more than enough underlying structure to give the wine backbone, persistence and a good deal of explosive energy as well.

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

Graphite, dark blue/black fruit, smoke and spices meld together in the 2012 de Fonbel. Beams of supporting minerality and tannin give the 2012 much of its energy and sense of direction. This is a very pretty, impeccably balanced wine from the Vauthier family. The blend is 60% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Petit Verdot and…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Saturated dark red. Deep, nuanced nose combines dark fruits, minerals and underbrush. Sweet and highly concentrated but tight and backward, even a bit sullen today; fruit and stone flavors are quite primary for the vintage. Finishes with substantial broad tannins and very good grip. May ultimately merit an even higher rating.

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Dark red-ruby. Reticent but aromatic nose hints at red cherry, pepper and flowers. Juicy and lean in the mouth, with a spicy character. The impression of slightly tart acids, combined with the wine’s modest fleshiness, leave it rather tough today. But here the substantial tannins are smoother. I’d like to have seen a bit more…

Vinous Table: Repubblica di Perno, Monforte d’Alba, Italy (Mar 2018)

The 2000 Château Branaire Grand Cru Classé (now Branaire-Ducru, but back in 2000 still called just Branaire) showcases the greatness of Bordeaux. The Branaire is rich and ample in the style of the vintage, but with Branaire’s (and Saint Julien’s) natural grace, balance and charm keeping it from being over the top.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Good medium ruby. Deep, smoky aromas of cassis, raspberry, leather, chocolate and roasted oak. Sweet, supple and thick but not at all heavy. A very concentrated wine with lovely sweetness of fruit and terrific mouth coverage. Really spreads out on the back end, which features broad, ripe tannins and terrific length.