Archives: Product Reviews

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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Laid-back, extremely young aromas of honey, creme caramel, smoke and earth; essence of semillon. Rich, large-scaled and powerful; really expands in the mouth. Lovely harmonious acidity and bright notes of orange peel and minerals give this very youthful wine great clarity of flavor. Classy and impeccably balanced. The subtle, oak-spicy, nutty finish goes on and…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1989 Yquem is my favourite of the triumvirate and this bottle was stellar. It explodes from the glass with scents of quince, acacia, honeysuckle, saffron and wild heather (a trait that I have observed previously). What marks this out is the stunning delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with tangerine, fig, marmalade and quince. A…

Port Is For Life: Symington Vintage & Tawny Ports (Dec 2018)

The 1965 Quinta dos Malvedos Single Vintage is a limited bottling of 400 that should appease those born in this difficult birth year. That said, it is not the best Quinta dos Malvedos that I have encountered, being rather leathery and dusty, with the tincture of furniture polish that I have remarked on before. The…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 1998)

Medium color shows some development. Expressive, complex aromas of redcurrant, plum, dried flowers, tobacco and smoke; rather Graves-like. Smooth, silky and consistent, with lovely sweetness and moderate flesh and weight. The very fine, tongue dusting tannins are slightly dry, but there also sneaky finishing fruit. Drink over the next five or six years.

1998 and 1997 Red Burgundies (Mar 2000)

Medium red. Complex aromas of currant, mocha, clove, dark chocolate, rose petal and marzipan. Substantial and solidly structured; serious and nicely delineated. Finishes with wonderfully smooth tannins for a young Bonnes-Mares. But can’t match the (Chambolle-Musigny) Amoureuses for precision or class.

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

The 2011 Chianti Classico Querciabella has that extra bit of depth, creaminess and mid-palate pliancy missing in the 2010, all while maintaining plenty of brightness, freshness and Sangiovese character. Freshly cut roses, sweet red berries and a hint of spices are woven into the exceptionally elegant, refined finish. Simply put, this is a striking wine…