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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru was picked on August 28, the first to be harvested this year. It tends to produce very small berries, according to Leroux, which is no doubt why the nose is very intense, with citrus fruit, lemon curd and light patisserie scents. The well-balanced palate is slightly viscous on the entry….

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(Leroux owns this vineyard on the Chassagne side of the appellation; one of the three barrels was new): Deep, ripe aromas of fresh apricot and clove. Very rich, sappy and powerful but shy and quite backward today, conveying outstanding breadth and a strong impression of soil and solidity. The sweetest of these young ’17s in…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(following an early malolactic fermentation, Leroux is intentionally keeping this wine reductive, describing this as the Coche technique): Very reduced aromas of smoke, minerals and clove. Fat, smoky, salty wine with terrific pliancy and depth. A bit lower-toned than some of these 2016s but large-scaled, strong and in need of time in bottle. Musky, smoky…

Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a ripe, quite candied bouquet laced with orange peel, mandarin and hints of fish oil and linseed. The palate is well balanced with a spicy opening, touches of stem ginger and orange peel laced with marjoram, dovetailing into quite an intense, layered finish that is complex and persistent. It…

The 2015 White Burgundies: A Year of Sunshine (Sep 2016)

(this fruit was picked on September 3; 40% new oak; still at 2.5 g/l r.s. and not yet sulfured): Bright medium yellow. Very ripe stone fruit flavors show a slightly exotic tropical quality. Plush, ripe and sweet, with a distinct thickness to its apple flavor. The long, slowly mounting finish displays terrific soil salinity and…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Bourgogne Hautes Côtes de Nuits Les Dames Huguette has plenty of vibrant red fruit on the nose, mixed with earth and orange rind. The palate is well balanced in an easy going style with touches of brown spice interlacing the red fruit on its poised finish. Fine.