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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Berliquet has not come together as well as I had hoped. There is a certain aggressiveness and edginess that keeps the wine from being fully expressive. It will be interesting to see if more time in bottle helps. This was the first vintage made by the Canon team led by Nicolas Audebert. The…

2014 Gigondas Charms While 2015 Stuns (Sep 2017)

Lurid ruby-red. Expressive aromas of ripe red berries, candied lavender and smoky minerals; a subtle garrigue nuance emerges with aeration. Juicy, concentrated and broad on the palate, offering pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter and more energetic with air. Shows very good depth and finishes long and gently tannic, with a lingering…

2014 Gigondas Charms While 2015 Stuns (Sep 2017)

Deep ruby. Highly fragrant raspberry, boysenberry and Asian spice scents show excellent clarity and pick up a floral quality with air. Deeply concentrated but lithe red and dark berry flavors caress the palate and show no rough edges. Candied lavender and spicecake notes linger on a very long, subtly tannic finish that echoes the blue…

New Releases from Piedmont (Dec 2010)

Rosso’s 2006 Barolo La Serra shows more density and freshness than the Serralunga, along with high-toned flowers, spices, mint and berries that flow from its focused, mid-weight frame. Firm, chewy tannins round out this strong effort from proprietor Davide Rosso.

Cellar Favorite: 1988 Ausone (Apr 2019)

The 1988 Ausone shows extremely well after 31 years. It remains lucid in colour with little ageing on the rim. The bouquet is clean, with so much fruit that it comes across more like a 1989 than a 1988. It sports none of the leanness or greenness one sometimes finds with Right Bank 1988s, just…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

(a monopole): Moderately saturated bright medium red. Very reticent nose hints at red berries, plum and menthol. A step up in texture and sweetness from the village wine but still with modest intensity and nuance. Red berry and spice flavors lead to a finish featuring dusty tannins and moderate length; this, too, turns a bit…