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The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

The 1997 San Leonardo is stunning from the first tilt of the glass. The wine shows wonderfully mature but still vibrant, bright cherries laced with white pepper and geranium. Hints of moist earth come forward. Silky, deep and fleshy textures prevail, yet they are in perfect balance. Ripe red and black fruits soothe, offset by…

New Releases from Australia, Part 2 (Sep 2009)

(75% shiraz and 25% cabernet sauvignon) Opaque violet. Youthfully brooding aromas of cassis, boysenberry, black olive, licorice and Indian spices. Powerful and chewy in texture, offering vibrant dark berry and mineral flavors and an exotic floral pastille quality. Impressively lively for such a concentrated wine, with strong finishing thrust and precision. I’d give this at…

2004 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2009)

Medium red. Riper aromas of redcurrant, plum and leather, complicated by a whiff of apricot. Ripe, sweet and broad, showing more weight and structure than the winery’s basic bottling, but also a strong impression of soil character. Finishes fleshier and longer, with sweet, building tannins that coat the front teeth.

2004 Brunello di Montalcino: A Vintage Full of Surprises (Jun 2009)

The estate’s 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli is a big, strapping wine loaded with dark fruit, smoke, new leather and minerals. The Montosoli, from one of Montalcino’s top sites, shows considerable density and richness. The tannins build on the finish, rounding out a gorgeous Brunello that achieves a brilliant combination of power and elegance.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Bright dark ruby. Sweet, superripe aromas of raspberry, plum, black cherry, tobacco, toffee and game. Like liquid velvet in the mouth: sweet, voluptuous, seamless. Palate-staining flavors of black cherry, chocolate and smoky oak. Finishes with chewy, toothfurring tannins and great persistence.

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2007)

Good deep red. Deep, brooding aromas of plum, menthol, truffle, marzipan and chestnut; very Serralunga. Fat, sweet and full but youthfully inexpressive; impressively thick but monolithic at present. This expands dramatically toward the back, finishing with huge, broad tannins. A very tight wine in need of extended aging: I can see this being quite long-lived,…