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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full ruby-red. Spicy, aromatic nose offers blackberry, camphor, toast and exotic woodsmoke. Supple, spicy and easygoing, with moderate density but attractive sweetness and juiciness to the middle palate. Finishes with ripe, building tannins and sweet fruit. In a distinctly easygoing style.

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Cantegril offers good depth and persistence in its candied lemon peel, pineapple and floral notes, but is marred by unfocused aromatics. With a little more attention to detail, this could be a meaningfully better wine.

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1991 Pichon-Baron has a light, dusty, slightly green bouquet that represents a big comedown from the highs of the previous two years. The palate is foursquare, hard and rather mean, with a severe lack of fruit on the hollow finish. This is simply past its best. Tasted at the Pichon-Baron vertical at the château.

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Latour Martillac is tight, compact and unyielding, with plenty of energy, but less in the way of mid-palate generosity, at least today. Dark red and blue fruits struggle to emerge from a wall of firm, incisive tannins. If the 2013 gains depth in elevage it might turn out to be a more complete…

Focus on California (May 1999)

Deep ruby-red. Black cherry, cassis, tobacco and shoe polish on the nose. Good flavor intensity, but not as fruity or dense as the ’97. Could use a bit more pliancy. Finishes fairly tannic, with hints of chocolate, minerals and mint. Seems less thoroughly ripe than the ’97.

Elegance and Power: The 2010 White Burgundies (Aug 2012)

The 2010 Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles is a totally complete wine. It brings together the expressive bouquet and minerality of Combettes with some of the expressive fruit of the Folatières. Vivid and multi-dimensional in the glass, the Pucelles wraps around the palate with serious intensity. Citrus, white flowers and green pears linger on the highly nuanced, refined…