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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Bright medium red. Sexy high-pitched perfume of raspberry, rose petal, chocolate and red licorice. Sappy but youthfully imploded on the palate, but already displaying outstanding definition and lift to its berry, spice and mint flavors. This is at another level in terms of its sheer energy. The tannins are firm but fully ripe and the…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Echézeaux Grand Cru, which comes from lieux-dits, has a clean and precise bouquet, gradually unfolding with quite pure black cherry and crushed strawberry fruit, plenty of crushed violet here. The palate is medium-bodied with a creamy opening. Some new oak needs to be subsumed, but there is fine weight and density, a nice…

Bending Rules: Les Carmes Haut-Brion 1955-2019 (Oct 2022)

The 2011 Les Carmes Haut-Brion, which has a slightly lower pH than the 2010, was aged for 12 to 14 months in barrel (60% new). There is a mixture of red and black fruit on the nose, nicely detailed though not complex. Hints of liquorice emerge with time and become more “plummy” in the glass,…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Deep ruby. Smoky, spice-accented aromas of candied dark cherry and redcurrant, with vanilla and violet nuances emerging with air. Enters velvety and open-knit, with appealing sweetness to its spicy red fruit, cola and floral flavors, but turns more austere on the back end. Finishes long, with repeating floral notes and assertive but noble tannins.

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(93% merlot and 7% cabernet franc; 31 h/h; 73% grand vin): Very deep purple-ruby. Intense aromas of cassis, plum, bay leaf, minerals and aromatic herbs. Beautiful silky texture on entry, then wonderfully supple in the middle, with the blueberry and blackcurrant syrup flavors lingering impressively on the back end. Finishes with rising but smooth tannins…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Château l’Evangile has a little more exoticism on the nose compared to the 2012 La Fleur de Gay that preceded it: dark chocolate and camphor scents, coalescing nicely with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and acidity, sour cherries mixed with white pepper and a gentle grip with hints of leather…