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Best New Wines from Australia (Jul 2014)

Opaque ruby. Pungent, spice-tinged dark berry liqueur and cherry-vanilla scents unwind slowly while retaining very good focus. Offers palate-staining black and blue fruit flavors complicated by suggestions of mocha and lavender pastilles, with a hint of cracked pepper emerging on the back half. Closes on a smoky note, with mounting tannins and a whiplash of…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Beaune (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chorey-lès-Beaune Village, a blend of two sites in the south and north of the appellation, has a pleasant raspberry and wild strawberry bouquet, light earthy notes filtering through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red berry fruit, a dash of white pepper and a well-defined finish. Enjoy over the next 5–7…

The 2013 and 2012 Northern Rhône Wines (Feb 2015)

Inky ruby. An exotically perfumed bouquet displays intense aromas of red fruit liqueur, potpourri, smoky minerals and white pepper; smells like a very serious Burgundy from a ripe year. Palate-staining raspberry and floral pastille flavors are accented by an exotic jolt of blood orange. Gains weight and sweetness with air, finishing with resonating minerality and…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Very pale yellow-green color. Nose dominated by lime, crushed stone and steely minerality. Densely packed and almost painfully dry, with taut, penetrating citrus and mineral flavors showing more energy than flesh today. This ungiving grand cru has plenty of depth and flavor intensity but is an infant today. The stony, austere finish is like touching…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Isole e Olena’s 2010 Cepparello is magnificent. In particular, I admire the way the wine fleshes out in all directions, with seemingly endless layers of dark, mineral-infused berry, plum and pomegranate notes. A primal wine in need of significant cellaring, the 2010 is easily one of the highlights of the year. Bright, saline notes support…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(from a crop level of just 12 hectoliters per hectare, according to Liger-Belair): Good bright, deep red. Aromas of raspberry, crushed stone, pepper, licorice and pungent oak; this smells sweet! Superconcentrated and large-scaled, with outstanding density to the black cherry, bitter chocolate and rocky flavors. Very ripe but a bit disjointed and inscrutable today owing…