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2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Deep ruby. Powerful, pungent aromas of kirsch, dark berries, smoky herbs and spicecake, with notes of black olive and tobacco coming on with air. Chewy, palate-staining dark fruit flavors are complicated by bitter chocolate, licorice and black cardamom. Acts like a 2005 today, with serious structure but also superb depth of powerful, densely packed fruit….

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Yquem has a more “serious” bouquet than many other Sauternes, more nuanced with dried honey, lanolin, saffron and beeswax. The palate is exquisite, quite intense with pure botrytised fruit, just a patina of extant oak, yet real depth and enormous length. Marvellous, even if I would not place the 2016 in the top…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Yquem was poured from magnum. To be honest, it is almost identical to the bottle tasted three years earlier (although a wit would counter that it's “twice as nice”). It's probably too young to distinguish between the maturity of the two formats, but it has a gorgeous saffron-scented bouquet with hints of acacia…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Yquem was poured from magnum. To be honest, it is almost identical to the bottle tasted three years earlier (although a wit would counter that it's “twice as nice”). It's probably too young to distinguish between the maturity of the two formats, but it has a gorgeous saffron-scented bouquet with hints of acacia…

Keeping Everyone Happy: Southwold Bordeaux 2022

The 2022 Beychevelle tasted superb just after bottling but I am not convinced by this example, which felt a little over-ripe and bitter compared to its peers. I shall not mark based on this. Tasted blind at the Southwold tasting in London.

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Beychevelle is so impressive. A wine of precision and stature, the 2022 has so much to offer. Inky dark fruit, licorice, mocha and lavender build in a sumptuous, creamy Saint-Julien. All of that intensity mounts through the mid-palate, reaching a stunning crescendo on the explosive, resonant finish. Even with all of its obvious…