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Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

This bottle of 2004 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) was not quite at the level of the spellbinding bottles served five years earlier. It retains that lovely citrus-fresh, hazelnut-tinged nose that becomes ever flintier with aeration. It might be quibbling, but this bottle does not deliver the same tension as I found before, despite…

2004 White Burgundies (Sep 2006)

Perfumed, classic aromas of citrus fruits, peach and white flowers. Sweet, smooth and full; quite creamy for the vintage. A dense, rich, ripe wine with lovely balance and considerable elegance. Finishes broad and persistent. Made from Morgeot and Vignes Blanches vines averaging nearly 40 years of age. A more classic style than the comparatively exotic…

2004 White Burgundies (Sep 2006)

(according to Veronique Drouhin, the house sold off half of its Montrachet in 2004) Soil-driven aromas of clove, marzipan, iodine and spicy oak, plus an exotic note of apricot. Powerful, concentrated flavors of fresh stone fruits and spices. Really saturates the palate with sweetness, but perfectly integrated acids keep the wine lively and delineated. Today…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Carbonniex is a gorgeous wine to drink now and over then next 10-15 years, maybe more. Time has softened the edges and given the 2005 lovely aromatic complexity. This mid-weight Pessac-Léognan isn’t a blockbuster, but it is immensely delicious today and really hitting its stride as a wine that is approaching maturity. Sweet…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Moderately saturated medium red. Somewhat shallow aromas of redcurrant, plum and tobacco. Soft, plump flavors of redcurrant, smoke, tobacco and earth are given some shape by firm tannins. Finishes clean and persistent. Not bad, but this bottle is not up to the quality of the barrel sample I tried last spring.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Champeaux 1er Cru has a fragrant bouquet with cranberry, wild strawberry and light tobacco scents. There is a slightly melted quality to this Champeaux that is attractive. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth entry, very pliant tannins, red fruit mixed with allspice and clove, a hint of white pepper towards…