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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Richebourg Grand Cru boasts one of the most expressive aromatics from barrel, offering dark berries mixed with crushed limestone, pressed flowers and oyster shell, the fruit becoming more intense with aeration. The palate is extremely cohesive with unerring symmetry, filigreed tannins (perhaps more like a Romanée-Saint-Vivant) and immense depth endowed upon its arching,…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy (Mar 2023)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru is one of the standouts in this tasting. Opulent and sumptuous to the core, the Echézeaux is a real head-turner. I suppose it is not as complex as some of the other wines in this range, but as Aubert de Villaine once said to me about his Montrachet “You don’t…

Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on 30 August and 1 September at 28.2hL/ha. The floral aspect of the vineyard is nicely accentuated on the nose. There’s a mélange of red and black fruit, a slight creaminess coming through with time and then this ebbs to offer light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a fresh nose with brambly red fruit, raspberry and wild strawberry, well defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with good concentration, quite dense with mulberry and a dash of white pepper. Moderate delineation towards the finish. This one of the one cuvée that I found difficult to pin…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

After all these years, the 2003 Dom Pérignon Rosé has finally started to be expressive. In this tasting, the 2003 is distinguished by its vertical build and a real sense of gravitas. The natural power of the year – once quite hidden – now comes through loud and clear.

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

Light orange. Heady red berry and citrus fruit aromas are complicated by smoky minerals, potpourri and tarragon. Broad and weighty on the palate, offering intense raspberry and blood orange flavors and a bright mineral overlay. No way that I’d have guessed that this came from a hot vintage like ’03. Closes smoky, stony and extremely…