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2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Barolo Monprivato is gorgeous. Aromatic and gracious, the 2018 is silky, expressive and very nicely balanced. The 2018 is a bit light and ethereal, as Monprivato is these days, but the tannins are impeccably balanced and all the elements are beautifully put together. Crushed red berry fruit, cinnamon, spice, dried flowers and orange…

Vintage Port – The 2016 Declaration (Jun 2018)

The 2016 Croft Vintage Port has a taut bouquet at first that demands a good 20 or 30 minutes to get into its stride. It eventually reveals scents of blackberry, bilberry, chimney soot, clove, and just a hint of scorched earth in the background. The palate is spicy and vivacious on the entry: black fruit,…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…

Valpolicella & Soave: The Times, They Are A Changin’ (Feb 2021)

The 2007 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico A Roberto coats the glass with glycerol-like richness while displaying dusty dried flowers, incense, cloves, pine resin, quince and a lifting hint of camphor. It’s silky in texture yet enlivened by bright acidity, as ripe red fruits give way to hints of grilled orange, exotic brown spices and cocoa….

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Echézeaux En Orveau Grand Cru (the lieu-dit has been stated on the label since 2018) has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with dark cherries, wild strawberry and raspberry fruit, the marl terroir coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with crunchy red fruit, the 20% whole bunch imparting a pleasing peppery note…