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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Deeper red-ruby color. Less expressive, less obviously ripe aromas of redcurrant, blueberry, smoke and game. Then silky and soft in the mouth, with insinuating flavors of plum, raspberry, woodsmoke, minerals and flowers. Firm but perfectly integrated acidity gives this wine good shape and cut. Finishes with tongue-coating but supple tannins and subtle flavor. In the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Echo de Lynch Bages felt rather overdone on the nose, fig and prune-tinged black fruit that lack definition and elegance. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannin, plenty of tobacco-infused black fruit with a rather austere and straight-laced finish that is the archetypal English gentleman’s claret. It feels a little hollow. I cannot…

Vinous Table: The Parson’s Table, Arundel, UK (May 2022)

The 2018 Brut Reserve from Gusbourne in Kent provides more evidence, not that it is really necessary anymore, that English sparkling wine is really delivering. A tripartite blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier aged for 36 months on the lees, it offers enticing orange blossom, Nashi pear and hints of crème fraiche on…

Napa Valley’s 2022 & 2023 Cabernet Sauvignons (Dec 2024)

The 2021 Insignia is gorgeous. Dark, fresh and vibrant, the 2021 impresses with its purity of fruit and fine balance. Readers will find an understated Insignia built on finesse and nuance more than size. Its vibrancy is compelling, but the 2021 is a bit quiet today. That should not be an issue in time.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Nénin is a vintage that I had not tasted for some years. This is mature on the nose with peaty menthol scents that lean slightly towards the Rhône. Perhaps there is some Brettanomyces here? The palate is medium-bodied with soft tannins, leather and mocha notes, moderate depth and a slightly smudged, rustic finish….

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Nénin has aged impeccably. Savory, perfumed and wonderfully deep, the 2005 possesses terrific depth and lovely balance. As always, there is some firmness in the tannin, but a few hours in the decanter helps. Hints of cedar, tobacco, dried cherry and orange zest linger nicely on the finish. If well stored, the 2005…