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The Misunderstood Margaux: Marquis de Terme 1947-2021 (Oct 2024)

The 1998 Marquis de Terme has a bold and assertive nose with what feels like more new oak than preceding vintages. It’s a little brash and, as such, denuding it of the terroir expression displayed by the 1989. The palate is again rich and toasty with plush black cherry and blueberry fruit. It’s quite Napa…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Clerc Milon has plenty of red berry fruit, kirsch, touches of liquorice and cassis. The palate is medium-bodied and fresher than the Armailhac with supple tannins and notes of white pepper and liquorice. This comes across surprisingly sweet and spicy on the finish, though it lacks the complexity and elegance of the very…

Margaux Focus 3: Château Margaux (Sep 2023)

The 1999 Chateau Margaux is another overlooked vintage that transcends the growing season. This example, which is from an ex-château magnum, is delightful. It offers a slightly more fruit-driven, heartier bouquet than you would presuppose from a supposed mediocre season. Black fruit is laced with graphite and clove and blossoms with aeration while maintaining superb…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Pichon-Longueville Comtesse de Lalande has been an inconsistent performer from bottle over the years. Retasting at the château at the 20-year stage, Nicolas Glumineau poured the wine at 9.30 am and then repoured the same bottle over dinner that same day. This proved how vital it is to afford the 2005s plenty of…

2004 Barolo: The Cream Rises to The Top (May 2015)

The 2004 Barolo Riserva Le Rocche del Falletto is simply as profound as wine can be. Period. Strikingly layered, perfumed and sensual to the core, the 2004 has it all. Next to the straight Falletto, the Rocche is more refined but also quite a bit more backward as well. Mint, rose petal and melted road…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Full, deep red. Incredible nose combines red fruits, blood orange, minerals, spices and smoked meat. Sappy, silky and extremely intense yet somehow weightless, with a pristine quality to its fruit and mineral flavors. This saturates every millimeter of the palate with flavor, with the extraordinary rising finish going on for two minutes or more. Again,…