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Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Montrachet Grand Cru is a little oakier and creamier on the nose than its peers, yet with enormous depth of fruit that crashes over the olfactory senses. But perhaps it needs more delineation? It seems slightly later-picked than its peers, giving off light caramel notes. The palate is medium-bodied and hewn from a…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

Rauzan Ségla has included more Cabernet Sauvignon in recent vintages due to new plantings and selection in recent years, according to Nicola Audebert. The 2022 has a dense nose that has dispensed with some of the opulence observed during primeur two years ago. There is plenty of concentration allied with less exoticism and extravagance than…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Rauzan-Ségla is a classy, elegant wine. Even so, the 2022 very clearly lacks the immediacy of some surrounding vintages. Readers should be prepared to cellar this for a number of years The mid-weight, gracious presence of Rauzan-Ségla is very much present, and yet the tannins are pretty imposing. Dark red/purplish fruit, rose petal,…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Château d’Armailhac has a detailed and expressive bouquet that’s classic Pauillac in style, with a little more black fruit than I noticed from barrel, here laced with cedar and pencil box aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with quite a succulent entry. It has plenty of fruit concentration, gentle grip, a touch of blackberry…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 d'Armailhac is a dense, potent wine. All of the exuberance and richness of the year comes through loud and clear. The 2022 is an especially plush d'Armailhac built on fruit texture and opulence. Plush contours wrap around a core of dark red-toned fruit, cedar, leather and dried herbs. This is a bit on…

Variations on a Theme: Burgundy 2020 Whites (Jul 2024)

The 2020 Montrachet Grand Cru (Marquis de Laguiche) has a riper bouquet than the Montrachet from Olivier Leflaive Frères. The nose offers candied orange peel, linseed, crushed rock and just a slither of white peaches. It shows fine delineation and becomes quite a patisserie (chestnut Paris Bresse, as a fellow taster astutely observes) with aeration….