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A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Duhart-Milon has a really wonderful bouquet driven by the higher proportion of Cabernet Sauvignon (78%), with pencil shaving aromas infusing the black fruit. This is quintessential Pauillac in style. The palate is medium-bodied, crisp and vibrant, with fine-boned tannins and an almost crunchy texture toward the saline finish. Beautifully balanced and poised, this…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Duhart-Milon is a big, rich wine. Ample and expansive on the palate, it has so much to offer. Cabernet Sauvignon takes center stage as dark-toned fruit, graphite and expressive savory nuances open with aeration. Huge swaths of creamy tannins wrap it all together, building to a substantial, explosive finish. The 2022 is an…

A Quarter of a Century in Chile: A Vertical Tasting of Seña (Aug 2022)

The 2020 Seña was made in another warm, early-ripening year further complicated by the restrictions that came with the COVID pandemic, which hindered decision-making in the vineyard. A blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Malbec, 15% Carménère and 7% Petit Verdot, it was aged for 22 months, 90% in French barrels and the rest in…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Haut-Brion has a more sophisticated and delineated bouquet than the 2005 La Mission Haut-Brion with layer upon layer of pure black fruit commingling with crushed stone, Montecristo cigar and light black olive scents. It becomes more floral as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with a slightly powdery texture and…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Cos Estournel is a vintage that I had not tasted for several years, made in the temporary winery at the time using a vertical press and peristaltic pumps for the first time. Deep in colour with light bricking on the rim, it has a thoroughly enjoyable nose that has matured a little since…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Cos d’Estournel is a magical wine. The aromatics alone as mesmerizing. Mocha, dried flowers, herbs and a whole range of deeply-pitched spice notes soar out of the glass. Explosive, deep and so full of character, the Cos dazzles from start to finish. Time in the glass brings out hints of rose petal, cedar…