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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Mazures 1er Cru has a taut and fresh nose, a clever reduction at play here, one that does not impede across the terroir expression. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, good weight, vibrant and poised with good length on the finish. Excellent.

The Saar’s Deliciously Diverse 2017s (Oct 2019)

Chervil, fennel and oregano are accompanied on the nose by suggestions of white peach that are – in a departure from several other Van Volxem 2017s – at least as much about the flesh of the fruit as about its pit. The feel is subtly silken; there is a welcome generosity of fruit juiciness; and…

The Saar’s Deliciously Diverse 2017s (Oct 2019)

Anise, smoky marjoram and incisive black pepper accent ripe white peach on a winsome nose and a glossy, palpably dense but not at all heavy palate. While this 12.5% alcohol Grosses Gewächs lacks the levity or clarity of its Hütte counterpart, it finishes with impressive persistence and promises to be well worth revisiting.

2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Au Bas de Combe, from the village crus just below Les Boudots, has a straightforward and quite open bouquet. There is purity rather than power. The palate is crisp and fresh, with crunchy black currant and bilberry fruit, and quite strict and linear. I am seeking more substance toward the finish…

Focus on the Central Coast (Nov 2008)

(for 375 ml.; 7.5% alcohol with 392 grams per liter of residual sugar) Bronze-gold color. Candied apricot, honey and toffee on the nose, with a strong mineral quality gaining strength with air. Supple, impressively deep apple and pear compote flavors become sweeter with air, taking on butterscotch and dried fig character. Leaves sweet spice and…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Batailley has a slightly gamey bouquet that opens nicely in the glass, with red berry fruits, brown spices and light minty aromas that entice you in. The palate is medium-bodied with plush tannins, but there is real structure behind it, insistent grip with an off-dry, dark chocolate-tinged finish. Give this another couple of…