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2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(these 65-year-old vines high on the hillside were picked last in 2017, according to Rovani): The nose shows more Puligny-like floral lift than the foregoing samples, along with mint and spice notes. Juicy, concentrated stone fruit flavors are nicely accented by spices. Finishes quite firm, even a bit tannic. No doubt the wine’s concentration and…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Racine du Temps Très Vieilles Vignes has a light nose, missing some terroir expression, a little rustic. The palate is medium-bodied with a spicy entry, dark berry fruit. Like the Marsannay it demonstrates strong stewed tea notes on the finish.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Vougeot Les Cras 1er Cru has an attractive nose with brambly redcurrant and cranberry fruit, perhaps without the complexity of Legros’s finest Chambolles or Moreys. The palate is well balanced with what feels like “chunky” tannins, very saline, almost briny with a healthy sprinkling of cracked black pepper on the finish. It’s got…

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Inky violet color. A smoky mineral top note and a building suggestion of pungent flowers complement cassis, blackberry, olive and licorice. Chewy and broad on the palate, offering concentrated dark berry preserve, cherry-cola, smoky bacon and candied violet flavors that show strong energy and firm tension. Finishes very long and smoky, with gripping tannins and…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie, which comes from the usual three climats (see previous vintage notes). It has a joyful nose with raspberry coulis, fig and Morello cherries. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, good density, a bit broad-shouldered but there is fine delineation on the finish. Give it a year in bottle.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Marsannay Clos du Roy has an open-knit nose with brambly red fruit, though it feels just a tad loose-knit at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, tea leaf and tobacco. This Marsannay is just missing some concentration on the austere finish.