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Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru is initially understated on the nose, unfolding with brambly red fruit, undergrowth and just a light touch of morels. Very succinct with a kind of broody intensity – but maybe a touch of Brettanomyces? The palate is well balanced with a note of sour cherry and wild strawberry on the…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambertin Grand Cru clearly has the most complexity and amplitude on the nose, featuring blackberry, briar, raspberry and crushed stone aromas; this feels complete and very harmonious. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, a fine bead of acidity, superb structure and wonderful salinity and cohesion on the persistent finish. Très Chambertin…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Village is positively bulging with black and red fruit on the nose of dense blackberry and bilberry; a light marine influence surfaces with time. The palate is well balanced with firm, grippy tannins that feel more robust and slightly drier than the 2019 compared alongside. A little brusque on the finish at…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Musigny Grand Cru has a well-defined bouquet with red cherries, blackcurrant, touches of animal fur and black truffle – very complex and intense. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, wonderful depth and cohesion, the acidity perfectly judged. The 30-40% stems here lends a discrete peppery note on the finish to what is…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Troplong Mondot has a delightful, well-defined and focused bouquet. The new oak is seamlessly integrated, with blackcurrant, raspberry coulis, light cedar and orange blossom aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, gentle grip and just a touch of wild mint with a dash of white pepper. This has very fine persistence, freshness…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Troplong Mondot predates the arrival of Aymeric de Gironde and this is a complete 180° in style. It has a punchy bouquet with dark plummy fruit, melted tar and light sous-bois scents, but it lacks the joie-de-vivre of the Valandraud. The palate is full-bodied and Bretty in style. This is an animally Troplong…