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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

My feeling about the 2018 Réserve de la Comtesse is pretty much the same as it was when I first tasted it en primeur. It is an attractive, gracious wine with plenty of immediacy and appeal, but not the depth of some previous editions. I imagine that mostly reflects the significant presence of young vine…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Réserve de Pichon Comtesse has undergone a discreet change of name since the 2017 vintage. What has not changed is that it’s a knockout Second Label. It ladles out gorgeous scents of blackberry mixed with iodine and violets, just as it did from barrel. The palate is quite rich and generous, with saturated,…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Moulin Saint-Georges has a broody, introspective bouquet, so I allowed it 90–120 minutes to open. It reveals enticing blackberry, seaweed and light graphite notes with aeration, perhaps a little more sophisticated than recent vintages of the Vauthier family’s estate. The immediate impression on the palate is the texture, which is satin-like and very…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Moulin Saint-Georges is packed with inky blue fruit, lavender, spice, mocha and licorice. Succulent and racy to the core, the 2018 offers tons of immediacy and charm. Silky tannins, soft curves and tons of sheer allure make Moulin Saint-Georges a terrific choice for drinking now and over the next two decades. This joyous…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2002 Giscours has a much lighter bouquet than the ’01, with slightly dusty red fruit, red brick and forest floor scents. This seems mature, whereas the ’01 will cruise for some years. The palate has a sweet entry and grippy tannins, though it is missing some grace and complexity. It just runs out of…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1995 Pichon Baron is a wine that I have tasted several time before. The nose is lighter and perhaps less engaging than the Pichon-Comtesse: simple brambly red fruit, iodine and light marine scents come through, but it needs more vigour and sophistication. The palate is well balanced but has dry and rather rustic tannins…