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2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(just under 13% alcohol, without chaptalization): Good bright, full red. Ineffable high-pitched aromas of raspberry, pomegranate, cranberry, spices, flowers and white pepper. Wonderfully sappy and fine-grained, with outstanding inner-mouth mineral-driven perfume to the taut flavors of pungent red berries, flowers and spices. Most impressive today on the inexorably building finish, which features very suave tannins…

Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru has tasted brilliantly before, though this bottle was not in the same leagues. It is quite a high-toned, flashy bouquet with just a touch of VA that ebbs with aeration, though never fully. There is a soupçon of dark chocolate that infuses the red fruit. Interestingly, this was always…

Vinous Table: Mount Sinai Charity Dinner at Saison (Nov 2019)

The 2009 La Tâche Grand Cru is the most ethereal of the three wines in this flight. Whole cluster influence is especially marked here. A whole range of spice, dried flower, mint and savory overtones infuse the 2009 with layers of nuance. Next to the other wines in this flight, La Tâche is ethereal and…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Bright red-ruby. Subtle, sweet perfume of black raspberry, spices and truffle. Compellingly sweet, sexy wine with terrific vinosity to frame its ripe berry, floral and underbrush flavors. The wine’s inner-mouth aromatic character owes more to spices and earth than to high-pitched fruits and flowers, but this is like bottled pheromones. Finishes with powerful mouthdusting tannins…

The Quiet One: 1962 Burgundy & Bordeaux (Dec 2023)

The 1962 Lafite-Rothschild can be a superb Pauillac, but I don’t think this bottle is correct. Powerful on the nose with a distinct burnt match element, this is quite sweet and animally on the palate. This bottle just doesn’t feel right, and I will not review it. Tasted at the 1962 dinner in Burgundy.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very unforthcoming on the nose; opened to show a whiff of shoe polish. Also quite closed in on itself in the mouth; hints of black cherry and dark chocolate. Rather powerfully structured and tough to taste today, but conveys an impression of of excellent concentration. As I noted last year, the substantial tannins coat the…