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Once Upon a Time – Soldera Retrospective: 1977-2017 (Jun 2024)

The product of a cool, rainy season, the 2014 Toscana Sangiovese remains bright and nervy in feel. White pepper, rose petals, mint, herbs and blood orange race across the palate. The 2014 is a shy wine, one with fruit very much in the background. It will be interesting to see how this ages. Today, the…

Bordeaux 2020 – The Southwold Tasting (Nov 2024)

The 2020 Mouton-Rothschild has a delineated and intense bouquet, slightly more tertiary than its peers, with graphite and cedar notes developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. Silky smooth in texture, it's a very polished 2022, fanning out gloriously toward the finish. To put it prosaically, this is a very delicious…

Roederer Cristal Full Circle: 1993-2015 (Dec 2023)

The 1999 Cristal is very pretty. It’s a rare Cristal vintage with a bit more Chardonnay than the norm. Apricot, spice, ginger, hazelnut and exotic tropical fruits all open with some aeration. The 1999 shows good depth and density, but it is hard to get past some of the angular contours that remain. Dosage is…

Vinous Table: Grouse Club @ The Bull, Charlbury, UK (Sep 2025)

Golden in hue, the 1990 Dom Pérignon blossoms on the nose with brioche, almond, lemon zest and hints of honey that imply botrytis. The palate is just effervescent with impressive vigour after 35 years. Boasting yellow fruit, honey once more and a slightly mellifluous finish, this is everything you want in a mature DP.

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Calon Ségur, which was matured in 75% new oak, has a powerful and burly nose: quite intense black fruit meet star anise and cough candy scents. This has fine delineation, even if a little rustic compared to the wines nowadays. The palate is smooth on the entry, and the tannins have softened since…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Léoville Barton has a delightful bouquet with more red fruit than the Langoa, wild strawberry, redcurrant, light cedar and wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and modest depth, quite fresh with a slightly rustic finish. It becomes a little medicinal with time. The 2005 is cut from a different cloth…