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2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru is another of the more expressive wines in the range. It opens with striking mid-palate pliancy and also possesses a level of inner sweetness the other wines don’t have, and yet there is plenty of the tannic clout that defines the Richebourg as well. Time in the glass allows…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 La Tâche Grand Cru was picked on September 6 and 7 at 34hl/ha and bottled between March 25 and April 24. As Aubert de Villaine had noted earlier, this is a more introverted La Tâche that bided its time in the glass. The fruit is slightly darker than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, with the addition…

One Night in Taipei: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Richebourg 1995-2017 (Jun 2025)

The 2014 Richebourg Grand Cru has an exquisite bouquet with wonderful transparency and Pinoté, displaying vivid red cherries and crushed strawberry fruit, lively and tensile. The palate is medium-bodied with plenty of energy right from the start. It boasts finely tuned tannins, none of the greenness that afflicts some of its peers, with real nerve…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

It is several years since I last tasted the 2015 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, which Jacques Devauges made in his first year. This has a more rustic bouquet compared to recent vintages: brambly red fruit, iron filings, and that “rusty nail” component that I observed back in 2018. The palate is medium-bodied with firm…

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Full, dark red, Sappy scents of black raspberry, violet and licorice are higher-pitched and considerably less earthy than those of the Corton. Chewy and penetrating in the mouth, conveying strong energy and a restrained sweetness to the tactile flavors of plum, berries, spices and pepper. This wine, too, delivers the saline minerality of the year,…

Domaine de la Romanée Conti: A Survey of the 2021s (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Echézeaux Grand Cru is shockingly primary. Dark, brooding and introspective, the 2014 is in no mood to show all its cards today. The mid-weight structure of Echézeaux is evident, but whole cluster savoriness and incisive tannins are masking the fruit at present. I generally have no issue drinking wines on the younger side,…