Archives: Product Reviews

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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Léoville Barton has a delightful bouquet with more red fruit than the Langoa, wild strawberry, redcurrant, light cedar and wild mint. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and modest depth, quite fresh with a slightly rustic finish. It becomes a little medicinal with time. The 2005 is cut from a different cloth…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Seuvrées has a light nose with airy red fruit, quite tertiary in style, well defined if missing a bit of intensity. The palate is nicely poised on the entry, with crisp and slightly brittle tannins and fine acidity. It needs to develop more matière on the finish as it come across…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

Medium red. Noteworthy lift and urgency to the perfumed aromas of raspberry, cranberry, spices and flowers. At once more intense and more supple than the Gevrey villages, with the perfumed quality carrying through in the mouth. The red berry flavors are complicated by saline and graphite notes. Shows excellent slowly rising length for a village…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Corton Grand Cru has a really lovely nose with raspberry, briary and sous-bois scents. Poised and quite complex – very endearing. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine definition, a hint of white pepper with a well-balanced and delineated finish. Quite persistent on the aftertaste, this is a Corton that is…

2017 & 2018 Napa Valley In Depth (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon Vineyard is a gorgeous, inviting wine, but it is also going to need a few years in bottle to shed some of its formidable tannins. Black cherry, plum, graphite, pencil shavings, crème de cassis and menthol open up in the glass, but only with great reluctance. Patience will…

South Australia, Victoria and a Bit Beyond (Sep 2022)

Saturated ruby. A highly perfumed, spice-accented bouquet evokes ripe dark fruits, pipe tobacco, mocha and candied flowers. Palate-staining blueberry, cherry liqueur, licorice and fruitcake flavors show excellent depth as well as vibrancy. The floral and spice notes return on the impressively long, focused finish, which is framed by smooth, late-arriving tannins.