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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Petrus has a somewhat dour nose, and compared to the Lafleur, it lacks fruit intensity and freshness. There is an underlying herbaceous element here. The palate is medium-bodied with somewhat dry tannins, moderate weight and fine acidity. Given the peppery finish, you might presume there was some Cabernet Franc in the blend. But…

Alsace 1998 and 1997 (Jul 1999)

Ripe but tangy aromas of lime, orange peel, mint and chalk. Penetrating, hard-edged lime and orange zest flavors; a low-fat wine enlivened by electric acidity. With its strong impression of malic acidity, this is a perfect example of the 1996 vintage: there virtually nothing like this wine in either ’97 or ’98. A wine of…

Sharing Alike: Petrus 1947 – 2015 (Sep 2018)

The 2001 Petrus has always been winemaker Jean-Claude Berrouet’s favourite vintages. It has developed a truly exquisite bouquet that is both svelte and sensual without any sense of being overbearing. It is almost unaware of its beauty. It gradually opens with tinctures of dried blood merging with ebullient and disarmingly pure red fruit with brilliant…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium red-ruby. Very ripe but subdued nose hints at mulberry, caramel, toffee, iron and nutty oak. Very ripe, broad and deep but quite closed today; lush and full but classically dry and light on its feet. Red berry and mineral flavors coat the palate. Builds impressively on the very long, gripping finish. I would not…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Lafleur is quite a bit less showy than most Pomerols in this vintage. I suspect the high percentage of Cabernet Franc may have something to do with it. Aromatically intense, but also austere, the 2005 feels like it needs more time. The bouquet is captivating, but huge tannins make Lafleur much less accessible…

Enigma Variations: Lafleur 1955-2015 (Nov 2018)

The 2005 Lafleur does not quite match up to previous examples and certainly juxtaposed against the 2000 Lafleur, I have a preference for the millennial. Still, I am quibbling. It has a tightly-wound bouquet at first with blackberry, wild strawberry, black truffle and minerals that only reluctantly unfolds over the course of two or three…