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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good bright red-ruby. Enticing aromas of blueberry, flowers, graphite and charred, nutty oak, plus a sexy suggestion of floral white fruit. Like liquid silk on entry, then concentrated and lush in the middle, with red plum, tobacco and mineral flavors given definition by lovely harmonious acidity. Utterly seamless wine with suave tannins. Voluminous and intense…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Inky ruby. Suave, mineral-accented scents of ripe blueberry, black currant and Indian spices, along with a slowly emerging floral component. Plush, broad and deeply concentrated, displaying black and blue fruit, licorice and mocha flavors that are energized by an intense, peppery overtone. Finishes extremely long, fleshy and sweet, delivering intense mineral thrust, a subtle cracked…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Pretty aromas of ripe black cherry, cassis and truffle. Then dense and almost massive on the palate, with rich flavors of black plum, cassis and cocoa coating the palate. My enthusiasm was muted by a mouth-puckering tannic astringency. This big, full-bodied Pomerol might yet come around, but I doubt it will ever be…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

I once described the 2009 Le Gay as monumental and I have no reason to alter that view under these blind conditions. It has a tightly wound bouquet with blackberry, truffle, forest floor and light tobacco scents that gather momentum in the glass. Captivating. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin, very well poised with…

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Opaque ruby. Smoky blueberry and cherry compote aromas pick up a peppery nuance with air, along with a suave floral quality. Fleshy and seamless on the palate, offering sweet, deeply concentrated black and blue fruit flavors and a hint of lavender pastille. Spreads out and becomes spicier on the juicy, penetrating finish, which is framed…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium red. Sexy aromas of redcurrant, graphite and smoky, nutty oak. Supple, lush and soft but with harmonious acidity giving shape to the currant and smoke flavors. One senses some thoroughly ripe cabernet here. Finishes with sweet tannins, lingering red fruits and good cut. The best vintage in a long time for this chateau.