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A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Montrose has a wonderful bouquet that has opened up since I last tasted it just prior to the pandemic. Its gorgeous pure blackberry, boysenberry, menthol and pencil lead bouquet is clearly less rustic than some of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied, quite powerful and intense with a slightly medicinal entry, a minty…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

This last flight is mesmerizing. The 1990 Cristal is a rich, exotic beauty. Apricot, tangerine oil, spice and baked pastry are all signatures of a mature Champagne. Even so, the 1990 is fresh, vibrant and full of life. Its volume and resonance make it impossible to resist a second taste, and then a third. The…

Dom Pérignon: A Rosé Retrospective: 1962-2004 (May 2015)

The 1995 Dom Pérignon Rosé (magnum) is absolutely stellar. Of course, the magnum format helps, especially vis-à-vis the 1996. The 1995 might fall just short of being truly epic, but not by far. Today, it is the wine’s overall balance and harmony that are most captivating. A Champagne with no hard edges and tons of…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2004)

Pale watermelon-orange color. Nose dominated by red berry notes of strawberry and raspberry, with hints of earth and minerals; seemed to go into a shell in the glass. Penetrating-verging-on-painful if not yet as complex as some past vintages of this wine, with delicate red berry flavors framed and intensified by the brisk acids of the…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cissac has a generous, fruit-driven bouquet, a mixture of red and black fruit laced with violet and light tobacco scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a potent marine/seaweed-influenced opening, tangy in the mouth with an iodine finish. This conveys a lot of personality. A fine Cissac that should give 12–15 years of drinking…

Where Value Lies: First Look At 2016 Bordeaux (Oct 2018)

The 2016 Cissac has a clean and pure bouquet with blackberry, boysenberry and cedar aromas that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, quite precise with a focused, quite vibrant and persistent finish that is very satisfying. This is a great Cissac, a wine that will…