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Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2004 Brane-Cantenac is a far better wine than the 2003. It has much more energy on the nose, which features red berry fruit and hints of tobacco, sage and sous-bois, all beautifully defined. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin and crisp acidity, and very well balanced, even if it is missing a little…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Expressive, inviting aromas of plum, redcurrant, smoked meat, mocha, tobacco and cedar. Suave, juicy and bright, with lovely inner-mouth aromatic character to the flavors of redcurrant, minerals and dried flowers. Focused and primary. Lovely subtle claret with a juicy quality and lingering perfume.

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2004 Brane-Cantenac is a delightful wine for the vintage and, as I wrote before, far superior to the previous one. Cropped at 59.4 hl/ha, this was one of the largest yields in living memory, refuting the idea that low yields equal better quality. The nose is very well defined with blackberry, raspberry and tobacco…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2016 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Château was not tasted at the domaine, but at a private La Paulée, where the owner Louis Ng poured this wine. I include it here for convenience. It has a bright red cherry and crushed strawberry nose laced with orange zest that leaps from the glass. The palate is very…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Lafleur-Gazin is soft, open-knit and quite gracious. This is an especially lifted, perfumed Pomerol. Tobacco, cedar, dried flowers, mint and crushed red berries are all laced together in a silky, approachable, mid-weight Pomerol that will drink well upon release given its superb balance and sense of harmony.