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Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1996 La Conseillante has been an inconsistent performer over the years. Here it has a mature nose, less complex than the 1995 and with dark fruit, notes of forest floor and stewed black tea, a little herbaceous but nicely defined. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins that exert a gentle grip. It feels…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

The 2015 Montrose has developed very nicely over the last two years. As it showed from barrel, the 2015 is a relatively light-bodied wine for this site. Even so, all the elements are very nicely balanced throughout. I suspect the 2015 needs at least a handful of years to become fully expressive and will age…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Montrose was showing a little TCA on the nose. A second bottle was showing more fruit with high-toned black cherry and bilberry scents. The palate is very minty, youthful and primal on the entry. This is medium-bodied with dry tannins, but it feels stripped and simple on the finish. Tasted blind at the…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Montrose has wonderful lift and vigor on the nose that puts it ahead of its peers. Blackberry, iodine, cedar and greater mineralité come through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins. It's quite fleshy for a Montrose, which renders this one of the more approachable vintages. There is a keen countervailing…

Vinous Table: Le Tout-Paris, Paris, France (Aug 2025)

The 2015 Dom Pérignon is bright, fresh and wonderfully articulate. Citrus, floral and light savory notes abound. Medium in body and gracious, the 2015 is a fine choice for drinking now. It’s a Dom Pérignon that emphasizes freshness and vivacity more than anything else.

The Innings Continues: 1948 to 1995 Yquem (May 2025)

The 1979 Yquem is a vintage I had not encountered for many years. It was a late harvest that commenced on October 15, and botrytis took a long time to develop, the picking not finishing until November 29. Yields were very low. This has a backward nose with scents of dried honey, barley sugar and…