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Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1983 La Mission Haut-Brion is a very solid follow-up to the 1982, albeit not quite in the same class. It has a seductive bouquet of brambly black fruit, Earl Grey and sous-bois and fern-like scents that unfold with aeration. As always with this wine, it shows fine delineation. The vigorous palate is well-defined, offering…

Mission Complete: La Mission Haut-Brion 1928–2011 (Sep 2021)

The 1983 La Mission Haut-Brion is a very solid follow-up to the 1982, albeit not quite in the same class. It has a seductive bouquet of brambly black fruit, Earl Grey and sous-bois and fern-like scents that unfold with aeration. As always with this wine, it shows fine delineation. The vigorous palate is well-defined, offering…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The 2006 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs Brut is simply fabulous. In most vintages, Dom Ruinart is a big, ample Champagne that shows the structure of the Montagne de Reims Chardonnay in the blend. The 2006 has plenty of textural resonance and richness, and yet I am also struck by its tension. Both bottles I…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good red-ruby. Redcurrant, leather and game on the expressive if slightly rustic nose. Sweet and concentrated but a bit youthfully aggressive, and not showing the refinement or definition of the 2006. Strong nutty oak component. Finishes with substantial tannins that are a bit richer and more fully buffered by the wine’s middle-palate material than those…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Gruaud Larose, which was decanted for 30 minutes upon my request, replicated its performance a couple of years ago. This was the final vintage to include Malbec (1%). It has a very “useful” bouquet of blackberry, juniper berries and cedar that opens with vigour in the glass with satisfying intensity. The palate is…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

This last flight is mesmerizing. The 1990 Cristal is a rich, exotic beauty. Apricot, tangerine oil, spice and baked pastry are all signatures of a mature Champagne. Even so, the 1990 is fresh, vibrant and full of life. Its volume and resonance make it impossible to resist a second taste, and then a third. The…