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Compare & Contrast – DRC & Leroy (Jun 2019)

The 1999 Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru has such a decadent bouquet that, tasting it blind (as was the case here), one could assume it was courtesy of Domaine Leroy. But it’s fooling with you. Within two or three minutes, that opulence recedes to reveal a truly captivating bouquet of vivacious, comely black and blue berry fruit…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: An Essay in Terroir (Dec 2013)

An absolutely stunning wine, the 1999 Romanée St. Vivant is also deeply informed by vintage. Layers of flavor burst from the glass in all directions in a wine that captures the essence of Romanée St. Vivant. At times delicate and refined, while at others a wine of structure, the St. Vivant dazzles with its complexity…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Saturated ruby-red. Great pungent nose exudes blackberry, licorice, bitter chocolate and minerals; sappy but still faintly reduced. Tightly wound and powerful; high-pitched, spicy and minerally but currently showing less density and flesh than the Grands-Echezeaux. But a superb spine of acidity gives this very unevolved wine terrific verve and snap. Finishes impressively long and fine,…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2002 Clos de Tart Grand Cru was picked September 23–26 at 28.4hl/ha, alcohol degrees coming in between 14.3° and 14.8°, a pH of 3.20. It is a vintage that I have tasted several times, and in retrospect, one that never suited Sylvain Pitiot’s late-picked/extracted style of winemaking. Quite medicinal on the nose, it shows…

The Glorious 2002 Red Burgundies (Feb 2016)

Bright, deep red. Very pure, youthful aromas of raspberry, garrigue and pungent minerals; this smells like a five-year-old Burgundy. Round and sweet in the mouth, showing excellent volume for the vintage but also captivating tangy acidity to frame and intensify the flavors of red berries, minerals and black mushroom. Wonderfully suave, seamless wine with great…

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2016 Barbaresco Gallina is a gorgeous wine full of the classic, youthful austerity that is such a signature of the house style. Deceptive in its light to medium-bodied feel, the Gallina offers up striking Nebbiolo aromatics redolent of crushed red berry fruit, spice, mint and rose petal. Nervy tannins lend energy and drive. The…