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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Echézeaux Grand Cru has a very deep hue. The extraordinarily pure bouquet features black cherries intermingling with blueberry and oyster shell, and later a hint of potpourri. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, edgy and stony, with dark berry fruit and a little spicier than I recall apropos of previous Echézeaux at…

1997 Brunello di Montalcino (Jul 2002)

Intense garnet with ruby reflections. Opens with wonderfully sweet tobacco scents and spicy cedar. In the mouth there are nicely delineated, fresh flavors of anise, mocha and roasted coffee, the whole supported by very soft tannins, and the rather smoky close conveying an essence of raspberry. Although there are no hard edges in this sleek…

Focus on California (May 2001)

Saturated dark ruby. Aromas of black fruits, bitter chocolate, caramel and nutty, charred oak. Amazingly lush and silky for the year, with ripe flavors of black cherry, black raspberry and licorice. Can’t match the ’97, or the ’99, for sheer density but this is bright, concentrated, suave and very long. Tannins are even and fine….

Vinous Table: Barolo Masterclass at Scalini Fedeli (July 2016)

The 1997 Le Vigne is edged by the 1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis that follows. Ample and incredibly inviting, the 1997 Cannubi Boschis is a wine of total sensuality. An exotic mélange of dark cherry, plum, leather and spice melds into the super-expressive finish. All of a sudden the conversation stops at the dinner table. That…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2000)

Deep red-ruby. Pungent, minerally aromas of red berries and dark chocolate; distinct high-toned hint of surmaturite Sweet, thick and sappy; a huge, broad, headspinning Barolo that offers terrific vinosity and insinuating red berry flavors. Really extravagantly rich wine.

Tuscany: New Releases from the Coast (Jul 2022)

The 2018 Biserno is a gorgeous, elegant wine that captures the essence of the house style today. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, licorice and incense are all laced together. The 2019 is deep and fleshy yet also retains mid-weight structure and terrific energy. It’s one of the most elegant wines I have tasted here.