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Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Morey-Saint-Denis Les Loups 1er Cru is the first vintage not to include fruit from the Grand Cru, as the vines have reached 22 years, so that is not blended into the Clos des Lambrays. It now includes fruit from Les Blanchard, La Riotte and Le Village (yes, the latter is a Premier Cru)….

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Vosne-Romanée Les Beaux Monts 1er Cru has a delineated and mineral-driven bouquet with red berry fruit, briar, crushed stone and light ash-like scents. Very focused and classy, perhaps more precise than out of barrel. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp tannins and saline dark cherries. There’s a hint of dark chocolate towards the…

Sancerre: Combat Fatigue (Aug 2024)

The 2022 Pur Sang is done in a really sophisticated style. Despite its long élevage, it needs a little more time for its oak (demi-muids and cigar-shaped barrels) to integrate fully and for its sense of strictness to mellow. But this isn’t a wine you’d crack open on release anyway. It is pure and clear,…

Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Bright straw. Focused lemon and lime aromas are lifted by a dusty mineral tone. Quite nervy and sharply focused, with vibrant pink grapefruit, lime and refreshing bitter quinine notes. I suspect that some will find this a bit austere but the wine’s precision is impressive. Finishes clean, brisk and very penetrating.

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Bourgogne Hautes-Côtes de Nuits, which had already been bottled, has a pretty nose with brambly red fruit and light loamy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with a soft, easygoing entry. It offers plush red fruit with a twist of sour lemon on the finish. Drink over the next two or three years.

Never a Dull Vintage in the Northern Rhône (Dec 2022)

Glass-staining ruby. Intensely perfumed cherry and blackberry aromas are complemented by suggestions of licorice, candied flowers, olive paste and black pepper. Appealingly sweet and energetic on the palate, offering pliant cherry, dark berry preserve, exotic spice and floral pastille flavors that show impressive depth; a smoky mineral flourish gains strength on the back half. Shows…