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The 2011 Côte de Beaune Whites: Grace in Motion (Sep 2013)

An utterly mesmerizing wine, the 2011 Corton-Charlemagne conquers all of the senses with its grace and harmony. Lemon oil, white flowers, pears and crushed rocks are some of the many notes that are woven together in the glass. The 2011 is perfumed, sublime and drop-dead gorgeous from the very first taste. With time, though, the…

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

(13.8% alcohol): Pale straw-yellow. Very reduced nose hints at very ripe stone fruits, ginger, smoke and petrol. Round, sweet and quite ripe but a bit warm, and not currently showing the lift or grip of classic Corton-Charlemagne. This wine is lower in acidity than the 2012 version and comes across as rather outsized. I was…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2005)

Medium ruby. Rich, roasted aroma of cherry and plums, with exotic Indian spices and sweet, dusty cocoa powder. Juicy and plump in the mouth, displaying creme de mure, singed plum, cherry and tangy licorice, along with black pepper and bacon fat accents. Spicy, strongly extracted berry and chocolate notes mark the long, intense finish, which…

The Best New Wines From Spain (Sep 2005)

Saturated purple-ruby. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, gunflint, chocolate, minerals, flowers and sexy nutty oak. Wonderfully lush, creamy and sweet, with extraordinary concentration of dark fruit, mineral and floral flavors. A wine with no corners, and hard to scrape off your palate. Broad on entry, then expands to a new dimension on the back half….

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 2003 Suduiraut has a strange bouquet with melted wax, quince and wet wool aromas, rather smudged and becoming Aszú-like with time in the glass. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry and starts well. It is missing some precision, a little spicy in style however, the warmth of the growing season erodes…

2004 and 2003 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2006)

Bright, full yellow. Honey, pineapple and a whiff of menthol on the nose. Then impressively powerful in the mouth but with lovely acidity leavening its concentrated fruit. Very juicy and fine for Suduiraut, and not at all outsized or overly sweet. Comes across as very young, and finishes with noteworthy spine. Quite suave.