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Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2009 Alpilles Rouge is a powerful, brooding wine. It is also the most reticent of the five wines in this report. I don’t see the aromatic nuance, textural richness or finesse of the best years. Instead, the 2009 comes across as brooding and a bit monolithic. Of course, it is possible the 2009 is…

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this…

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this…

Future Memories: DRC 2022 In Bottle (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Échézeaux Grand Cru was picked on 11 and 12 September at 42.9 hL/ha. This was impressive out of barrel. It soars from the glass with black cherries, raspberry and white-tipped strawberry, the floral element (violets) less prominent compared to its showing from cask. There is just a hint of cumin in the background….

2022 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The Lightness of Being (Mar 2025)

The 2022 Echézeaux Grand Cru is absolutely exquisite, not to mention a significant step up in the range. Impossibly silky tannins and deep, penetrating aromatics give the Echézeaux its seductive personality. Medium in body and polished, with phenomenal balance, the Echézeaux shows how compelling the vintage is. There is no heaviness at all, nor any…

Sancerre: Taking the Temperature (Aug 2021)

Perhaps the most famous of the Dagueneau cuvées, the 2018 Silex is flowing and accessible on entry, but then it coils and tightens. The silex (flint) soil gives firmness, imbuing structure and steely tension. Power and concentration combine, providing an almost waxy texture on the finish. Flavors of spiced apples, almonds and pastry linger. It’s…