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Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Bélair-Monange has a straight-laced bouquet compared to its peers, with black plum, wild strawberry fruit, mint and mahogany bureau aromas. The oak is nicely integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. There is a sense of symmetry that I really appreciate. It's very focused with a healthy dab of black pepper toward…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Bélair-Monange has an intriguing bouquet with red plum, mocha, leather and antique bureau aromas. This is not as immediate or as generous as its peers, yet it is imbued with a compelling complexity. The palate is very well balanced with fine mineralité that seems to have bubbled up to the surface in recent…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 La Mission Haut-Brion has a supremely gifted bouquet with vigorous blackberry, pencil box and cedar scents that seem to have moved little since I last tasted it in 2019. The palate is medium-bodied, very ripe and actually much toastier than I remembered. This has pliant tannins and the savory element I picked up…

Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk (Aug 2024)

This dense and brooding 2020 Shiraz Grange has all the elements for a long life with impressive levels of extract and tannins, but lacking the delicacy of a great vintage. It opens up with waves of tarry, licorice and cola aromas against a backdrop of firm, unyielding oak. Muscular, chalky tannins provide a strong frame…

Barossa 2022: Run, Don’t Walk (Aug 2024)

This benchmark vintage for Penfolds Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon in 2022 carries both raw power and impressive vibrancy. It ripples with persuasive aromas of blackberry and blackcurrant topped by grated chocolate-mint and a strong oak component. Super power on display in a dense and full-flavored package marked by quite serious tannins that draw out an…

2011 and 2010 White Burgundies (Sep 2012)

(13.5% alcohol): Good pale yellow. Ripe aromas of peach, fresh apricot and hazelnut; a quintessence of Meursault. Rich, ripe and sweet but framed and energized by a stony mineral underpinning, strong spice notes and a flavor of underripe pineapple. The building, palate-staining finish displays excellent structure and verve. This needs a good eight years of…