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2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Deep red. Explosively perfumed nose offers a kaleidoscopic bouquet of red berries, candied cherry, orange marmalade and fresh flowers. Silky and deep in raspberry and cherry flavor, but with an airy, graceful character reminiscent of a highfalootin’ Burgundy. A remarkably concentrated, elegant wine that finishes with superb, seamless length. There is absolutely no excess fat…

Champagne: The 2018 Summer Preview (Jul 2018)

The 2008 Delamotte is a deep, resonant Champagne endowed with stunning lays of depth. In 2008 Delamotte has all of the kaleidoscopic, multi-dimensional personality of the vintage, but the full malolactic fermentation softens some of the natural angularity of the year. Pastry, vanillin, baked apple, dried flowers and chamomile are all beautifully sculpted in the…

2008 and 2007 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2010)

Bright ruby. Red berry, cherry and Asian spice aromas are lifted by sexy notes of rose petal and blood orange. Impressively pure and perfumed, with remarkable precision and cut to its concentrated but lively flavors of cherry and black raspberry. The weightless, mineral-driven character of this wine is something else. In a distinctly delicate, feminine…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

Sweet, succulent red cherries, plums, mint, spices, violets and rose petals hit the palate in the 2012 La Romanée, a wine built on pure, visceral intensity. A huge mid-palate and explosive finish round things out in grand style, but what I admire most about the 2012 is the constant push and pull of finesse and…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Bright medium red. Muskier on the nose than the Echézeaux, offering scents of red raspberry, smoke, spices and stone. Sweet, plush and deep but youthfully reserved, with powerful, sharply defined berry and spice flavors complicated by saline minerality. Wonderfully spherical, perfumed grand cru with a whiplash of a finish. But this is hiding more than…

Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair: La Romanée 1865 – 2014 (Mar 2016)

With the 2010 La Romanée we enter the realm of wines that are going to require many, many years to just start drinking well. In the 2010, I am drawn to the wine’s explosive energy and tension. Beams of salivating acidity and firm tannins provide the backdrop for a vivid and viscerally thrilling Burgundy. The…