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Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

(50% merlot and 50% cabernet franc) Bright medium ruby. Delicate, floral aromas of violets, red berries and tobacco, with a hint of pine needles. Bright and fresh on entry, this lighter-styled, easygoing version of Cheval Blanc offers pretty red cherry and raspberry flavors nicely lifted by a citrus twist. Finishes very long, pure and suave,…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright red-ruby. Brooding aromas and flavors of licorice, cherry pit, bitter chocolate and black cardamom. Lush and sweet in the mouth but with terrific definition and grip. This very young wine is most impressive on the vibrant, mounting, palate-saturating aftertaste, which features fine-grained tannins, solid structure and lovely spicy perfume. Wonderfully aristocratic wine whose outstanding…

Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2008 Cheval Blanc is one of the go-to wines of the vintage. Now at 15 years old, it has retained the energy and focus it displayed from the outset: black fruit, crushed stone, wilted violet petals and touches of forest floor cohere wonderfully in the glass. The Cabernet here is more expressive. The palate…

Champagne: The 2023 Spring Preview (May 2023)

The 2007 Dom Ruinart (magnum) is in a gorgeous spot right now where it is just starting to open. If anything, the magnum lags the 750ml bottle at this stage in terms of its development, which is of course to be expected. I admire the textural resonance here.

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

I thought the 2012s would be a good place to start this lunch, as the wines have always been quite open and seductive. That is very much the case today. The 2012 Cristal is quite delicate and floral, with hints of pear and white flowers that add considerable allure. This is a young Cristal still…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A huge, intense Saint-Émilion, the Bélair-Monange is just as impressive from bottle as it was from cask. That’s the good news. The not-so-good news is that the wine is going to need at least a decade to shed some of its considerable baby fat. A rush of super-ripe black cherry, game, smoke and tobacco hits…