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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Dark purple-ruby. Roasted nose combines blackberry, espresso and licorice. Large-scaled, mouthfilling and impressively deep; boasts terrific intensity and sweetness. Very long, ripely tannic finish. The estate has high hopes for its ’98, but it hard to believe it will surpass this wine.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good medium-dark red. Currant and leather nose; aromatics currently dulled by the bottling. Lush and layered in the mouth, with compelling sweetness and texture. Flavors of red cherry, iron and mint complicated by game and leather notes that repeat on the very long finish. Slight suggestions of raisiny ripeness. Finishes with substantial tongue-coating tannins…

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Valandraud hits the palate with gorgeous depth. A powerful, racy wine, the 2012 boasts remarkable intensity and structure for the year. Mocha, bittersweet chocolate, plums and dark spices open up, but above all else, in this vintage, Valandraud is a wine of structure. This is one of the few 2012s that absolutely needs…

Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(100% merlot): Opaque, fully saturated, practically impenetrable inky-ruby; this may be the darkest wine of the vintage. Deep, brooding aromas of dark berries and cherry are complicated by herbs, graphite and licorice. Chewy, rich flavors of cassis, plum, flint and herbs. The extremely long finish coats the palate with youthfully chewy yet noble tannins. Great…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2009)

Medium red, less saturated than Gaja’s wines from Barbaresco. Highly complex nose offers dark chocolate, truffle, minerals and flowers, along with a slight suggestion of dried fruits. Rich and deep but tightly wound; less floral in the mouth today than the examples from Barbaresco. The long, sweet finish mounts slowly, but today the wine’s serious…

In a Tuscan State of Mind (Aug 2013)

Beautifully resonant in the glass, the 2009 Lupicaia is a standout. Sweet red cherries, flowers, mint, anise, savory herbs and spices all ring out in a supple, gracious wine loaded with class. The 2009 needs a few years for some of the contours to soften, but it is a gorgeous wine with tons of personality….