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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Phélan Ségur appears to have lost the green edge that I observed from barrel, now coming across fresh with blackberry, seaweed and light sea spray scents. It gently unfurls with aeration, though never slips into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, just a touch of dark chocolate infusing the black…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full ruby-red. Cassis, minerals, cedar and a floral note on the nose, along with an herbal currant leaf component. Juicy and tight; hints at the power of the vintage but misses out on the sweetness and pliancy of the best examples. Offers a reasonably seamless texture but the firmly tannic finish seems a bit herbaceous…

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 2000 Cos d’Estournel, which never quite grabbed me from barrel, is maturing nicely in bottle. As it approaches two decades, it continues to offer an intense, almost ambitious bouquet with blackberry, hints of dark chocolate, tobacco and scorched earth. Both vigor and delineation is present here. The palate is medium-bodied rather than full-bodied these…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

Dark and imposing in the glass, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a delicate bouquet of balsam herbs and smoke, giving way to cedar spice box, dusty rose and dried black cherries. This is incredibly soft and pliant on the palate, with lavender-tinged, ripe red and black fruits guided by juicy acidity. Violet inner…

Buckle Your Seatbelts: 2019 Brunello and 2021 Rosso di Montalcino (Dec 2023)

Dark and imposing in the glass, the 2016 Brunello di Montalcino opens with a delicate bouquet of balsam herbs and smoke, giving way to cedar spice box, dusty rose and dried black cherries. This is incredibly soft and pliant on the palate, with lavender-tinged, ripe red and black fruits guided by juicy acidity. Violet inner…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Bright, pale yellow-gold. Captivating aromas of tropical fruits, vanilla and creme br u lee are complicated by honeyed botrytis. Enters the mouth smooth, balanced and fresh, showing building sweetness and complexity to its pure, rich mango, papaya, ginger and citrus flavors. This large-scaled Sauternes admirably combines power and grace, finishing pure and long. Jean-Rene Martignon,…