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The 2013 & 2012 Red Burgundies (Apr 2015)

The 2012 Romanée-Conti, usually a model of restraint and elusiveness, is surprisingly big in this vintage. The flavors are quite dark and bold in a decidedly structured, brooding RC that won’t be ready to deliver the full range of its extraordinary beauty for many years. Deep layers of spiced, mentholated notes continue to open up…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Full, dark red. Extremely closed nose hints at darker fruits, black olive, underbrushy soil tones and noble vegetility. Then shows its extraordinary amplitude and spherical shape in the mouth, with youthfully clenched but extremely rich flavors of berries, wild herbs, smoky minerals, underbrush and crushed rock broadening out on the back half and rising inexorably…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1999)

Aromatic, fresh nose combines apple, pear, mint and ginger. Rich but youthfully bound-up today; shows strong extract, excellent freshness and a firm stony foundation. On the dry side. Finishes firm, spicy and long. Needs patience.

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2012)

Good deep red. Red berries, pungent herbs, menthol and cedary oak on the nose. Brisk and tightly wound, with edgy flavors of cherry syrup and rhubarb. The tannins are a bit dry but hit the palate late, allowing the red fruit flavors to express themselves on the back. Shows a slight overripe/underripe character but I…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Saturated ruby-red. Wild aromas of plum, cured meat, milk chocolate, smoke, mace and cinnamon stick. Sweet and opulent for the vintage, with a distinctly velvety texture to the flavors of plum, mulberry, smoked meat and exotic spices. Finishes broad and sweet, with sexy suggestions of woodsmoke, chocolate and wild herbs. I’ve had a soft spot…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Saturated red-ruby color. Redcurrant, tobacco, smoked nuts and oak spice on the nose; less lively than the ’96. Sweet entry, then firm and rather withdrawn. Gives an impression of higher acidity and less ripeness than the ’96, but grew suppler and sweeter with aeration. Still, the tannins here are a bit more obtrusive. Finishes with…