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Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2020 & The New Burgundy (Mar 2023)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru is one of the standouts in this tasting. Opulent and sumptuous to the core, the Echézeaux is a real head-turner. I suppose it is not as complex as some of the other wines in this range, but as Aubert de Villaine once said to me about his Montrachet “You don’t…

Plus Ça Change: DRC 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Echézeaux Grand Cru was picked on 30 August and 1 September at 28.2hL/ha. The floral aspect of the vineyard is nicely accentuated on the nose. There’s a mélange of red and black fruit, a slight creaminess coming through with time and then this ebbs to offer light sous-bois scents. The palate is medium-bodied…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Mission Haut-Brion is beautiful and expansive from the first taste. Dark cherry, mocha, herbs, licorice, rose petal and mint open effortlessly. All the elements are so well balanced. Although the 2018 is quite easy to appreciate at this stage, it also has terrific energy and more than enough verve to develop positively…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Mission Haut-Brion was double decanted and assessed after two hours, and the over the following 24 hours compared directly with – what else? – Haut-Brion. They were initially poured blind. This has retained a very perfumed and hedonistic bouquet of black fruit and pressed violets, and less of the graphite that I…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Margaux is an infant. Today, the tannins are unusually searing, but then again, the 2018 is a wine in which all the elements are dialed up to the maximum. Time in the glass releases the fruit, revealing a luxurious, opulent Château Margaux built for the cellar. Cedar, tobacco, dried flowers and mint develop…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Château Margaux was observed over a period of 24 hours. I used the word "luxurious" to describe the nose when I encountered this First Growth from barrel, and it’s still apt to use now the wine is in bottle. It just blossoms over time, revealing gorgeous blackberry, raspberry, crushed violet and peony, and…